{"id":792,"date":"2025-01-17T10:14:10","date_gmt":"2025-01-17T09:14:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/?page_id=792"},"modified":"2025-01-18T14:12:29","modified_gmt":"2025-01-18T13:12:29","slug":"dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/index.php\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\/","title":{"rendered":"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Une Dame Joueuse<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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J’ai \u00e9t\u00e9 contact\u00e9e pour cette tenue de Cour des ann\u00e9es 1530 pour la troisi\u00e8me \u00e9dition du jeu de r\u00f4le grandeur nature “A meeting of Monarch”.<\/p>

La cliente souhaitait une robe conforme \u00e0 ce style sans pour autant entrer dans une d\u00e9marche purement reconstitutrice. Ainsi ses choix de tissus n’\u00e9taient pas purement dirig\u00e9s par les mati\u00e8res pr\u00e9sentes \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque, certains d\u00e9tails peu visibles sont visiblement m\u00e9canis\u00e9s.<\/p>

Pourquoi pr\u00e9ciser la d\u00e9cennie ? Parce que dans les Cour royales du XVIe si\u00e8cle, la mode est bien en place. On a des styles de costumes tr\u00e8s diff\u00e9rents au fil du temps. On commence donc \u00e0 avoir besoin de pr\u00e9ciser plus la p\u00e9riode vis\u00e9e. Ici le GN conseillait une mode 1520s, mais la cliente a pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9 se rapprocher de la mode 1530s.<\/p>

Pour cette mode anglaise du XVIe si\u00e8cle, ma r\u00e9f\u00e9rence est “The Tudor Tailor” par Jane Malcolm-Davies et Ninya Mikhaila<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Les dessous de madame<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Comme pour toute p\u00e9riode de l’\u00e2ge sombre avant la machine \u00e0 laver, on ne met pas un v\u00eatement couteux \u00e0 m\u00eame la peau parce que la lessive, c’est extr\u00eamement relou \u00e0 faire. Le premier sous-v\u00eatement est une chemise en lin plut\u00f4t simple, m\u00eame si on peut en voir avec de superbes broderies au fil noir appel\u00e9es blackwork, typiques de l’\u00e9poque, comme sur cette piece conserv\u00e9e par le mus\u00e9e de la mode de Bath<\/a><\/p>

On peut voir un peu de ces broderies au bout des manches de ma cliente. Elles ne sortent cependant pas de mes aiguilles, mais des siennes.<\/p>

Il y a aussi un petit faux cul pour donner \u00e0 madame la silhouette \u00e0 la mode, ainsi que des jupon. Ici un seul, mais a l’\u00e9poque il peut y en avoir plus, ne serait-ce parce que l’\u00e9poque est plus froide que la notre et que \u00e7a tient chaud.<\/p>

Pas de v\u00eatements sp\u00e9cifiques pour soutenir la poitrine, mais on verra que la kirtle a un peu cet effet<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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La Kirtle, la robe de dessous<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Dans le look complet, cette robe est discrete, on n’en appercoit presque que l’avant de la jupe. C’est probablement pour cela que les Anglais parlent de “Kirtle”, litt\u00e9ralement “Jupe”. C’est cependant une robe compl\u00e8te selon notre d\u00e9finition moderne du terme : en plus d’une partie jupe, elle couvre aussi le buste. Elle enveloppe d’ailleurs suffisamment le buste pour donner un certain soutien mammaire comme je le mentionnais plus haut.<\/p>

Elle est ferm\u00e9 par un lacage. Dans ce projet, les oeillets sont faits \u00e0 la machine, comme des boutonni\u00e8res. Pour une personne plus en recherche d’authenticit\u00e9, on peut les faires \u00e0 la main. Pour une personne en recherche de solidit\u00e9, on peut utiliser des oeillets m\u00e9talliques, mais ce n’est pas plus historique que les boutonni\u00e8res machine.<\/p>

Les manches, ici assorties \u00e0 la kirtle, n’en font cependant pas partie, elles sont ind\u00e9pendantes et attach\u00e9es aux coudes par les liens que l’ont voit sur ces photos.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Le Manteau de robe<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Par-dessus la Kirtle, on a la sur-robe, appel\u00e9e Gown dans mon livre. Elle est compl\u00e8tement ouverte devant, la jupe n’est pas compl\u00e9t\u00e9e pour laisser visible la Kirtle dessous. Et m\u00eame si une fois habill\u00e9 elle semble ferm\u00e9e au niveau du buste, en, fait non, c’est un pi\u00e8ge ! Le devant de la Gown est s\u00e9par\u00e9 en deux, ferm\u00e9 par un la\u00e7age, comme visible sur la premi\u00e8re photo. En fait, il y a un plastron qui est fix\u00e9 par-dessus le la\u00e7age et qui le cache.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Et si la jupe vous parait simple… sachez qu’elle fait quatre m\u00e8tres de long et est arrang\u00e9e en plis complexes. On parle de huit \u00e9paisseurs de jupe… qui est doubl\u00e9e. Donc seize \u00e9paisseurs !<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Les manches sont merveilleusement exag\u00e9r\u00e9es !<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Une Dame Joueuse J’ai \u00e9t\u00e9 contact\u00e9e pour cette tenue de Cour des ann\u00e9es 1530 pour la troisi\u00e8me \u00e9dition du jeu de r\u00f4le grandeur nature “A meeting of Monarch”. La cliente souhaitait une robe conforme \u00e0 ce style sans pour autant entrer dans une d\u00e9marche purement reconstitutrice. Ainsi ses choix de tissus n’\u00e9taient pas purement dirig\u00e9s […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"ocean_post_layout":"","ocean_both_sidebars_style":"","ocean_both_sidebars_content_width":0,"ocean_both_sidebars_sidebars_width":0,"ocean_sidebar":"","ocean_second_sidebar":"","ocean_disable_margins":"enable","ocean_add_body_class":"","ocean_shortcode_before_top_bar":"","ocean_shortcode_after_top_bar":"","ocean_shortcode_before_header":"","ocean_shortcode_after_header":"","ocean_has_shortcode":"","ocean_shortcode_after_title":"","ocean_shortcode_before_footer_widgets":"","ocean_shortcode_after_footer_widgets":"","ocean_shortcode_before_footer_bottom":"","ocean_shortcode_after_footer_bottom":"","ocean_display_top_bar":"default","ocean_display_header":"default","ocean_header_style":"","ocean_center_header_left_menu":"","ocean_custom_header_template":"","ocean_custom_logo":0,"ocean_custom_retina_logo":0,"ocean_custom_logo_max_width":0,"ocean_custom_logo_tablet_max_width":0,"ocean_custom_logo_mobile_max_width":0,"ocean_custom_logo_max_height":0,"ocean_custom_logo_tablet_max_height":0,"ocean_custom_logo_mobile_max_height":0,"ocean_header_custom_menu":"","ocean_menu_typo_font_family":"","ocean_menu_typo_font_subset":"","ocean_menu_typo_font_size":0,"ocean_menu_typo_font_size_tablet":0,"ocean_menu_typo_font_size_mobile":0,"ocean_menu_typo_font_size_unit":"px","ocean_menu_typo_font_weight":"","ocean_menu_typo_font_weight_tablet":"","ocean_menu_typo_font_weight_mobile":"","ocean_menu_typo_transform":"","ocean_menu_typo_transform_tablet":"","ocean_menu_typo_transform_mobile":"","ocean_menu_typo_line_height":0,"ocean_menu_typo_line_height_tablet":0,"ocean_menu_typo_line_height_mobile":0,"ocean_menu_typo_line_height_unit":"","ocean_menu_typo_spacing":0,"ocean_menu_typo_spacing_tablet":0,"ocean_menu_typo_spacing_mobile":0,"ocean_menu_typo_spacing_unit":"","ocean_menu_link_color":"","ocean_menu_link_color_hover":"","ocean_menu_link_color_active":"","ocean_menu_link_background":"","ocean_menu_link_hover_background":"","ocean_menu_link_active_background":"","ocean_menu_social_links_bg":"","ocean_menu_social_hover_links_bg":"","ocean_menu_social_links_color":"","ocean_menu_social_hover_links_color":"","ocean_disable_title":"default","ocean_disable_heading":"default","ocean_post_title":"","ocean_post_subheading":"","ocean_post_title_style":"","ocean_post_title_background_color":"","ocean_post_title_background":0,"ocean_post_title_bg_image_position":"","ocean_post_title_bg_image_attachment":"","ocean_post_title_bg_image_repeat":"","ocean_post_title_bg_image_size":"","ocean_post_title_height":0,"ocean_post_title_bg_overlay":0.5,"ocean_post_title_bg_overlay_color":"","ocean_disable_breadcrumbs":"default","ocean_breadcrumbs_color":"","ocean_breadcrumbs_separator_color":"","ocean_breadcrumbs_links_color":"","ocean_breadcrumbs_links_hover_color":"","ocean_display_footer_widgets":"default","ocean_display_footer_bottom":"default","ocean_custom_footer_template":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-792","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nDame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor - L'Aiguille Joyeuse<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/index.php\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor - L'Aiguille Joyeuse\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Une Dame Joueuse J’ai \u00e9t\u00e9 contact\u00e9e pour cette tenue de Cour des ann\u00e9es 1530 pour la troisi\u00e8me \u00e9dition du jeu de r\u00f4le grandeur nature “A meeting of Monarch”. 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Ainsi ses choix de tissus n’\u00e9taient pas purement dirig\u00e9s […]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/index.php\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Aiguille Joyeuse\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-01-18T13:12:29+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/A-Meeting-of-Monarchs-Run-3-1444-684x1024.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/\",\"name\":\"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor - L'Aiguille Joyeuse\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"http:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/12\\\/A-Meeting-of-Monarchs-Run-3-1444-684x1024.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-01-17T09:14:10+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-01-18T13:12:29+00:00\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/12\\\/A-Meeting-of-Monarchs-Run-3-1444-scaled.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/12\\\/A-Meeting-of-Monarchs-Run-3-1444-scaled.jpg\",\"width\":1710,\"height\":2560},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/index.php\\\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\\\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Accueil\",\"item\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/\",\"name\":\"L'Aiguille Joyeuse\",\"description\":\"\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#organization\",\"name\":\"L'Aiguille Joyeuse\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/09\\\/cropped-g77.png\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/09\\\/cropped-g77.png\",\"width\":162,\"height\":44,\"caption\":\"L'Aiguille Joyeuse\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\"}}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor - L'Aiguille Joyeuse","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/laiguillejoyeuse.fr\/index.php\/dame-a-la-cours-des-tudor\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Dame \u00e0 la cours des Tudor - L'Aiguille Joyeuse","og_description":"Une Dame Joueuse J’ai \u00e9t\u00e9 contact\u00e9e pour cette tenue de Cour des ann\u00e9es 1530 pour la troisi\u00e8me \u00e9dition du jeu de r\u00f4le grandeur nature “A meeting of Monarch”. 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